Our wine of the week, Orsi Family Vineyards Nebbiolo, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County ($54), in an engaging quaffer, with beautiful aromatics and a range of dramatic, dynamic flavors.
On one hand, the wine is deep and dark, with layers that unfold fruit by fruit: Raspberry gives way to Bing cherry which in turn gives way to cool topsoil and fresh tobacco. On the other hand, there are bright notes, suggestive more of, say, a coastal pinot noir than an inland red. Through all this are suggestions of savory herbs, including thyme, dried basil and Mexican oregano.
Vegetarians, including vegans, will enjoy this robust wine with braised carrots and lentils. Top with a mound of wilted spinach to complete the connection with the wine and you’ll have an extraordinary match.
Red meat goes beautiful with this wine, as do Italian classics such as spaghetti Carbonara and bucatini Bolognese. Aged cheese are good choices, too.
For today’s dish, I’m inspired by both the low notes and high notes of the wine. Here, luscious beefy sauce and slow-cooked meat engage with deeper qualities, while thyme and fresh spinach engage the wine’s higher notes.
The dish is rich and filling, perfect for a foggy summer night that honors the wine’s moniker; nebbia is Italian for fog.
8 to 10 medium shallots, trimmed but not peeled
8 to 10 garlic cloves, trimmed but not peeled
4 to 5 pounds beef shanks, cut 1 ½ inches thick
Black pepper in a mill
3 leeks, white and pale green parts only, thoroughly washed, cut into ¼-inch rounds
3 cups veal or beef stock
1 pound baby spinach leaves, rinsed, not dried
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
Heat the olive oil in a deep, heavy skillet set over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and saute, shaking the pan frequently, until they just begin to color. Do not let them burn. Use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a small bowl or plate.
Season the shanks all over with salt and pepper. Increase the heat to medium-high and brown the shanks thoroughly on both sides. Transfer the shanks to a plate, return the pan to medium heat and saute the leeks until they are wilted, about 8 to 9 minutes.
Season with salt and pepper, return the shallots and garlic to the pan, set the shanks on top, pour in the wine and stock and add the thyme sprigs. Increase the heat to high and when the liquid boils, remove the pot from the heat, cover it with a tight-fitting lid or aluminum foil and set in the oven.
After the shanks have been cooking for 90 minutes, remove the lid and cook for 30 minutes more, or until the shanks are fork-tender; remove from the oven, cover and let rest for up to 20 minutes.
When you remove the lid on the shanks, pour 4 cups of water into a 6- to 8-cup glass or porcelain baking dish. Stir in the polenta and 2 teaspoons kosher salt, and set in the oven. Cook for 40 minutes, add the butter to the polenta, stir and cook until the water is completely absorbed, about 10 to 15 minutes more. Remove from the oven.
Put the spinach in a wok or saute pan set over high heat, cover and cook until the spinach is just wilted, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and season with a little salt.
Arrange the shanks on a platter, leaving room at the center of the platter, and top the shanks with the garlic cloves and shallots. Use tongs to pile the spinach in the center of the platter and garnish with lemon wedges.
Taste the cooking liquid, correct the seasoning and pour it into a small pitcher or gravy boat. Drizzle a little of the liquid on top of the polenta and enjoy right away.
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